Annapurna
Sanctuary

Namaste — and welcome to Kathmandu, where ornately carved balconies mingle with beautiful shrines and temples. Our team meets you at the exit gate of Tribhuvan International Airport with CAT’s traditional palm plate welcome and transfers you to your hotel. The rest of the day is yours to recover, explore the local markets, or simply rest. We meet as a group in the evening for introductions and a welcome dinner.

A full day to explore the fascinating city of Kathmandu — its temples, the Boudhanath stupa, Pashupatinath, the old town of Thamel. We use the morning for kit checks and permit finalisation. Optional excursions into the Kathmandu Valley can be arranged locally. Evening briefing from our guides on the adventure ahead.

We take the spectacular 25-minute domestic flight to Pokhara — with magnificent mountain views on a clear day — and drive a short distance to the trailhead at Birenthanti. We meet our trekking crew, shoulder our packs, and begin walking up the Bhurungdi Khola valley. The trail gently climbs to the village of Hille, where we spend our first night on the trail.

Beyond Hille the trail steepens. It is good to make this climb before the heat of the day. We pass through the village of Ulleri — rewarded with increasingly dramatic views of Annapurna South and Hiunchuli — before the path levels out through pastures and cultivated fields. The trail eventually enters deep rhododendron forest before arriving at the beautifully situated village of Ghorepani, recognisable by its blue-painted rooftops. If the clouds allow, the mountain views from here are already breathtaking.

We rise before dawn for the 45-minute walk to Poon Hill — one of the most famous viewpoints in Nepal and for good reason. As the sun rises behind the mountains, the entire Himalayan panorama is revealed: Dhaulagiri to the west, Manaslu to the east, and the entire Annapurna range between. The light on the peaks is extraordinary. After returning to Ghorepani for breakfast, we make the short climb to Deorali for further panoramic views, then descend a steep river gorge before the trail climbs again to Tadopani.

From Tadopani the trail heads northeast through terraced fields and small villages until we reach Chomrong, the last large permanent settlement before the Sanctuary. The village is beautifully set against the peaks of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhare, which towers above everything. From Chomrong, the extraordinary spire of Fishtail Peak earns its name completely — the split summit resembles exactly what it is named for.

We leave Chomrong — the last permanent village before the Sanctuary — and walk up the Modi Khola valley through beautiful rhododendron and bamboo forest. The sound of the river accompanies us throughout. The forest is alive with birds and, in spring, the rhododendrons are in full bloom. We stay overnight at the simple but welcoming Bamboo Lodge.

We continue up the Modi Khola. The valley narrows into a steep-sided gorge; by the time the large fire-blackened rock overhang known as Hinku Cave is reached, the vegetation has thinned dramatically and the gorge is only a few hundred metres wide. It was at Hinku Cave that Chris Bonington and his Annapurna South Face team sheltered on their approach to the Sanctuary in 1970. The connection between this trail and the history of Himalayan mountaineering runs deep. We climb to Deorali, from where the Sanctuary itself is close.

The valley continues to narrow into a steep gorge, rising above the vegetation line, until we pass through the sanctuary ‘gates’ — the narrow gap in the mountain wall through which the Modi Khola flows. Once through, the world changes entirely. We cross moraines to Machhapuchhare Base Camp, where Fishtail Peak, Annapurna South and Hiunchuli tower directly above us. We are inside.

The final climb to Annapurna Base Camp, where the 360-degree panorama is revealed in its full magnitude. Starting from Hiunchuli (6,451m) and turning clockwise: Annapurna South (7,467m), Fang (7,646m), Annapurna I (8,091m) — the tenth highest peak on earth — Tent Peak (5,673m), Gangapurna (7,467m), Annapurna III (7,568m) and the incomparable Machhapuchhare (7,055m). We spend two nights here to witness both sunset and sunrise from inside the Sanctuary. The mountains glow pink and gold. It is entirely unforgettable.

We retrace the trail back down through the gorge, which is now a much gentler experience on the legs as we descend to lower altitude. About half an hour from Doban, a shrine stands in honour of the deity Bataha Than — it is traditional to leave strips of cloth or flowers here. Near the shrine, an impressive waterfall said to consist of 70 streams cascades down the mountainside.

Continuing down the Modi Khola valley, passing through rhododendron and bamboo forests, we return to Chomrong. From this angle, the reason for Machhapuchhare’s second name — Fishtail Peak — is obvious. A strong day of walking rewarded with increasingly warm air and lush vegetation as we descend.

We descend to the Kyumun Khola and trek through rice fields before climbing to Ghandruk, one of the most picturesque Gurung villages in Nepal. The village is surrounded by paddy fields and terraced hillsides, set against the magnificent backdrop of Annapurna South and Hiunchuli. The Gurung people are extraordinary hosts — proud, warm and deeply rooted in this landscape.

Our final descent takes us down to Syauli Bazaar at around 1,500m and continues to Birethanti, crossing the Modi Khola bridge for the last time. When all the kit is loaded and the team gathered, we drive to Pokhara and check into a very comfortable hotel. Hot showers. Lakeside views. A well-earned celebration dinner with the group.

The 25-minute morning flight back to Kathmandu, with mountain views on a clear day. The rest of the day is free — last-minute shopping in Thamel, visiting temples, or simply resting before the journey home.

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward flight. Until next time, Nepal.